Where's My Credit Card?

Our last night in Rome. We walked through the park, up the Spanish Steps and into our favorite hotel bar, the Hassler Rooftop Restaurant. It was here we had our first cocktails in Rome and it was only fitting we start our last night here, too. Two bellinis, a glass of wine and three Rossinis (strawberry puree instead of peach puree, ala the Bellini) later, we were off in search of a place to eat.

Stumbling down the Spanish Steps and onto the Via del Conditi, we turned right into a little alley and found Trattoria Otello. Sitting at the red-and-white checkered tablecloth tables were old men with bowls of pasta and playing cards in front of them, Italian women speaking their own language to each other and long tables of families sharing enormous bowls of pasta and antipasto dishes. We stood there, in the courtyard of this hidden gem, when a waiter came over and ushered us to a table for two.

On the menu: red wine, tomato salad, prosciutto and mozzarella, spaghetti bolognese and eggplant parmesan. As soon as we ordered my mouth started watering. I reached into my bag to grab my camera and instead grabbed my wallet. MFTM paid for drinks with my credit card at the Spanish Steps bar and put the receipt in my bag. But, where was my credit card?

The look on her semi-drunk face was priceless. "They forgot to give it back to me!" she said.

Off I ran, back down the Via del Conditi, up the Spanish Steps -checking potential peddlers and street vendors wanting me to buy something, passed the kids lounging on the steps with their beers and cigarettes, running over only a couple of tourists to get to the Hassler Rooftop Restaurant. Thankfully this night, I was wearing flats. They had my credit card waiting for me, and a shot of lemoncello to soothe my anxiety.

Rome Day 5: Last Day

Today is my last day in the Eternal City. I'm really quite sad and if the Hotel Homs offered me a free room for a few more nights, I'd likely take them up on it. Alas, I'm meant to return to Boston. But before I board the plane I have one full day to enjoy in Rome. On the agenda for today:

• Eat breakfast (leftover apple cake from last night's dessert and shot of espresso).
• Walk to Trastevere - one of Rome's most charming areas with medieval lanes to explore.
• Have lunch in one of Trastevere's famed restaurants.
• Walk through the the Villa Borghese (maybe visit the museum), which by the way, is on the completely other side of the city.
• Maybe get a walk-on role in a movie.
• Find a good place to have our last supper in Rome.

The other night I threw at least 3 Euros worth of coins into the Trevi Fountain, so I'm quite certain I've secured myself a trip back to Rome.

Someone Famous at the Hotel Homs

While dining this evening one block away from our hotel, the paparazzi went into high-gear at the front doors of the Hotel Homs around 10:30 p.m. They weren't there for me (as fabulous as I may think I am with my new bag) so it must be someone good. Will investigate...

Shopping on the Via Del Conditi

Dear God (or Work, whichever it may be),

Please don't let me lose my job any time soon, for today I made a very expensive purchase while shopping on the Via Del Conditi .

You see God (boss), like many girls I too have always wanted a real Louis Vuitton handbag. One that doesn't unravel at the seams like those you buy off the street and try to pass off for the real thing. One that when you look at it, you see the beauty of intriciate detail, not the fake red stitching or the gaudy gold plate used in copies. Today I bought myself my very first real Louis Vuitton bag, and I'm afraid it will a few paychecks to pay off this bill.

Many thanks for ensuring my paycheck,

Me

Rome Day Three: The Vatican and St. Peter's Bascillica

I'm still a little overwhelmed by today's sights so I promise to post more later, but for now, if you ever get to Rome do not pass up a chance to visit the Vatican Museums and St. Peter's Bascillica. There is a strong sprititual connection one has when first walking into the Vatican (said the Jewish girl) but it's not about your religious beliefs (at least not for me). For me, the connection is with heaven and earth and it's worth a moment to take it all in.

I found it inspiring that throughout the Vatican Museums and in the Sistene Chapel the Star of David was iconically placed throughout the floors and in the walls.

Walking into St. Peter's is (pardon the cliche) heavenly. The sights, statues and private services being held are inspiring and emotional.

More insight to come later...

Rome Day Two: Pantheon, Colosseum and Forums

Today started a little late thanks to a lot of wine the night before. We grabbed pizza and coke at the restaurant across from the hotel and set off in search of the Pantheon. We puttered along and ducked into stores to shop for luggage, handbags, jewelry, watches, artwork and more (no doubt like the Romans used to do when they made their way to the Pantheon in 27 A.D.). After walking through cobblestone streets filled with modern stores and cafes we turned a corner and there was the most amazing sight -- The Pantheon. It almost takes your breath away. Where else in the world does a 27 A.D. structure sit next to a piazza of cafes? Only in Rome.

I was simply blown away by the design of this ancient church. What is most inspiring is the open dome at the top of the structure. It symbolizes the spiritual connection between heaven and earth.

We continued our stroll and found ourselves at the Castel Sant' Angelo, one of the most intriguing and often overlooked monuments in Rome.

The fortress was built in the 2nd century and features an underground passage to the Vatican. It's seen more blood, death and demise than many structures of ancient Europe, but it was also home to several centuries of papal devotees. Located right on the River Tiber, the Castel Sant' Angelo offers beautiful views of St. Peter's Bascillica.



We made our way from the castle to the Colossuem -- it was a long walk, but the exercise of today felt great and the weather was beautiful. Here's what blows my mind about the Colosseum: How'd they build it? It's simply amazing! When you turn the corner and find yourself staring at this architectural wonder, you can almost envision the Gladiator flights that took place centuries ago. But really, how'd they build it?!


Back at the hotel now. Enjoyed some appertifs of olives and presseco and then went to dinner at a nearby Italian restaurant. Sadly, it was just average. Tomorrow night, we'll find something more authentic and less-touristy. But for now, I must rest... tomorrow is a big day: I'm going to church!

That's Rome

One of the side effects of being a travel writer is that sometimes you wake up and forget where you are, or more likely, what time zone you're in. Some days you wake up and you're just too overwhelmed by the sights and the sounds of a new place that it's almost hard to take it all in. That's Rome.

It's been 24 hours in Rome and I'm already in love with the Eternal City.

We had dinner last night in the Jewish Ghetto. A man walked with a violin playing songs I used to sing as a young girl in Sunday school. That's Rome.

After dinner we went to the Spanish Steps and (full of gumption, thanks to the bottles of wine we consumed) we ran to the top. There was a lovely wine bar at the top of the Spanish Steps, hidden behind tresses of ivy and wildflowers. We were seated for another glass of wine and the waiter poured himself a glass, lifted a glass and said "Salud" into the air to the crowd. That's Rome.

We stumbled home and crashed into bed. Eleven hours later it's noon in Rome - I'm over the jetlag and now battling a headache. Off to meet MFTM for some pizza before taking in the Colosseum, Forum and the Pantheon.

David Caruso in Rome

I'm a big fan of "CSI: Miami" so imagine my surprise when David Caruso (a.k.a., Horatio) walked into the hotel bar when I was waiting for MFTM. I wanted to grab him and yell, "I can't belive they shot you!!" (If you're a CSI fan you know what I'm talking about. If you're not, too bad). Turns out he's in town filming the new Ron Howard movie, "Angels and Demons," based on the Dan Brown bestseller.

(Side note... apparently there has been talk on whether or not he is actually "in" the film. I don't know. I honestly don't care. I'd personally prefer he were back shooting CSI, but I'm not in the Hollywood business so I don't make these decisions).

Caruso was swarmed by fans wanting pictures, so I casually walked past the chaos and into the bar (seriously people, there was wine waiting for me). I found a little nook where I could watch the scene and still enjoy a house red. He made his way through the bar and the staff mobbed him for a picture. Sadly, no one had a camera.

"I can take it for you," I said. "I will just email the picture from the room."

Just then a hotel front desk agent came in with her cell phone camera. My services were not needed so I went back to my wine. The amateur paparazzi event ended and DC and his lady friend walked out of the bar, but not before he stopped and -- dig this, please -- put his hand on my shoulder and said, "Thanks so much for offering your camera. Let me buy you this glass of wine."

I can now officially say that the first man to buy me a glass of wine in Rome was David Caruso. Anyone seen Clooney? Pitt?

(over)Packed and Ready for Rome!

I packed way too much. I would show you a picture, but I've already packed my camera. And I don't remember which bag it's in.

I wanted options for Rome. From what I understand, it's an incredibly fashionable city and since I don't always feel I exemplify "fashion" in the states, I might as well work it in Rome. Before you ask, I will offer up the shoe tally: five pairs.

• Black heels for evening
• Black wedges for walking
• Black flats
• Flip flops for lounging
• Brown wedges for walking/evening
• Brown flats

Ok six pairs...wait...tennis shoes...seven pairs. Seven pairs of shoes.

I did better on the outfits though - I attempted to mix and match. Sort of. No I didn't. I packed outfits for the day, and then outfits for the evening. I overpacked. This is justifiable, though. Rome by day is casual, Rome by night is dressy. It's good to have options -- celebrities change like five times a day, right?

Off to Rome! Ciao and I'll talk to you when in Rome...

Not One of the Chosen People

Got word back from the Excavacations Office at Saint Peter's Tomb. We were not chosen to venture into the Necropolis. Guess we'll have to stay with exploring Rome the typical way... above ground.

Oh good news though! Ron Howard and Tom Hanks are shooting "Angels and Demons" in Rome right now. Maybe I'll be chosen to star (by "star" I mean help write the script) in a movie...

Excavations in the City of the Dead

Anyone been inside this one before?

Apparently, there is an entire city underneath Saint Peter's Basilica. It's lovingly referred to as the Necropolis -- the City of the Dead. It's where Saint Peter was buried after his crucifixion at what is now known as the Vatican Gardens. It's a 60-minute tour that winds only 250 lucky visitors through the underground streets of the Necropolis and to the grave of Saint Peter.



I will admit I had to look up some info on Saint Peter. What I did know is that he was one of the apostles. But aside from that, I wasn't entirely sure who Saint Peter was to the people. (Sunday's were spent at temple -- you want to know about Moses, I'm you're girl.) Here's what I've learned:

• He was the founder of the first Roman Church
• Allegedly, Peter also walked on water after hearing that Jesus performed this miracle
• Saint Peter offered up a prayer for Yom Kippur, which (as Jewish folklore tells it) is how Jesus forgave Peter before he died.

The tour takes viewers through several excavated streets of the Necropolis and ends at the grave of Saint Peter. But it's only for the privileged few. You have to send a request to visit the Necropolis and the Excavation Center will let you know if your request has been approved. I hope we are approved --we would be the "chosen ones" to enter the tombs on that day. This is heavy stuff.

Now, I will warn you that I'm slightly claustrophobic. Apparently, inside the Necropolis is slightly claustrophobic, too. This could go very well, or very bad. But if we're chosen, I will take my chances.

Rome in Five Days!

It's finally here!! I leave for Rome in five days and I couldn't be more excited. The food, the wine, the shopping. If this were heaven, God would have a glass of chianti waiting for me at the Pearly Gates.

What to pack? From what I understand, Rome is high on fashion. Casual during the day. Elegant at night. That means checked luggage.

Here's what I have so far:

• two pairs of jeans
• one pair of black casual pants
• one pair of black dress pants
• four skirts (white, khaki for day; black and animal print for night)
• five evening shirts (silk, likely black)
• five day shirts (cotton)
• one pair of shorts (do I even own shorts? I'll have to look...)
• Workout clothes
• shoes... this will be a problem
• tennis shoes for my grand delusions of running in the mornings
• black flats for walking
• flip-flops for lounging
• brown wedge heels to go with brown silk/cotton top
• black heels for evenings out

What am I missing?

Countdown to Rome! T-26 Days

The countdown is on! Rome in under one month. I've been told packing for Rome is going to be complicated -- it's a city that delights in fashion, so while comfort is the way to go during the day, posh style is the way to go by night. I've gone spring shopping -- well, most of it's done, I have a few more pieces to buy -- and after I buy a few more pairs of spring/summer shoes I'm ready to go.

Caveat: I have a shoe addiction. It's bad. I have a spare room with a spare closet and it's full of spare shoes. One day years ago, my BFF Lynn made me promise that every time I buy a new pair of shoes, I have to throw out a current pair. I'm pleased to report that to date, I've kept my promise.

But the entire concept of shopping, packing and shoes got me thinking... what should I splurge on in Rome?

Here's one of my favorite travel tips: Always buy yourself something that reminds you of the place you're visiting. This can be something as little as a charm or large as an oil painting, but every time you look at your purchase you'll remember where you were when it was purchased.

I started a poll on this blog to get your opinions. Let me know what you think, and I just might go with the majority vote...

Roman Holiday

The Hotel Homs will be expecting us in June. We booked today and it's official -- Rome in June!

MFTM is practically packed. I'll admit I ordered a few choice article of clothing online last night in anticipation of the trip. My mind is still jet-lagged, my body is still 5 hours ahead of me, but I'm ready to get back on a plane and fly to Rome.

"We're going to find you a hot guy to take you around Rome on a Vespa," said MFTM.

Right on, sister. Sign me up.

Ciao, Rome!

Tuscany may be cancelled, but Rome is on! MFTM (my friend The Missus) re-arranged our flights this morning and we're heading to Rome.

MFTM fell in love with Rome years ago when she visited and has always wanted to go back. I guess everything happens for a reason. Ironic that I started this blog/book with Rome in mind. Conforming to cultures is essential in the search for paradise, and now I get to blend in with the culture that started it all.


Things to do in Rome:

• Visit the Vatican
• Enjoy as many outdoor cafes as I can
• Write as much as I can from the outdoor cafes
• Tour the museums
• Climb the Spanish Steps
• Kiss an Italian man atop the Spanish Steps (must be cute, young and adorable)
• Throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain to ensure another trip back to the Eternal City

**Additional things to do: Drink lots of wine!

Tuscany Travesty

This is devastating...

Our Tuscany Writer's Conference was cancelled. It's absolutely tragic. Apparently, because of the state of the economy and the weak dollar, too many conference-goers backed out and they had to cancel the trip. Our conference director, however, has been an absolute angel. She's putting me in touch with literary agents and publishers who can help me craft the book, even though the conference was cancelled.

I think we're still going to Italy -- maybe Rome for a week -- but for tonight, I will mourn the passing of my Tuscany trip. Meanwhile, my good friend The Missus is researching hotels in Rome and refilling my wine glass as I cry into my computer. In hindsight, this could be good. The blog name is "When in Rome," maybe it's time to go to Rome.

Au revoir, Air France! Save Alitalia!

There are few airlines I will refuse to fly. In fact, if the price is right, I'll sit with the chickens in cargo as long as I get to where I need to be safely. But there is one airline that grates my nerves thanks to their basic lack of customer service: Air France. You can image my annoyance today when Alitalia (the airline with whom we purchased our Tuscany flights) announced they've accepted a takeover bid from Air France.
I took a deep breath, prayed this wouldn't effect anything before June, and had flashbacks of the unfortunate Air France travel to Portugal last fall...

We were scheduled to leave on a Friday evening flight from Boston to Paris. Since I had recently quit my job and was enjoying a life of leisure, I was at home on the day of our departure getting some last-minute freelance articles complete before I had to pack. I wasn't meeting my girlfriends until 7pm, so I had plenty of time...or so I thought.

Thanks to the efficient travel reps at Expedia.com, I received an email informing me that my Air France flight had been changed. Important note: My friends who purchased the same flights through Air France did not receive any email or phone call alerting them to their changed flight. But I digress... Changed flight times are not usually a problem - happens all the time, actually, when airlines experience delays. So I called Expedia and was informed that my flight had been delayed ... until Sunday. Oh hell no.

After a frantic phone call to friend Sarah, who was organizing the Portugal trip, we arranged for Air France to fly us from Boston to New York, New York to Paris, Paris to Portugal, but we had to leave in three hours. THREE HOURS! The psycho packing that followed really deserves an honorable mention. Not only did I remember all my clothes, shoes and toiletries - I got it all in a carry-on bag. (Get real, people. If you think I was going to check my bags through three cities you're insane. I don't have that much faith.)

I rush to the airport and wait for my friends in the bar. We board the plane, get to NY on time and head to our connecting flight to Paris. On the way we meet Anthony, the one and only consumer-friendly person at Air France. Anthony gets all four of us seats together and secures us an early boarding pass to get comfy on the plane. Unfortunately for me, I was stuck in the middle. Fortunately, I was seated in between my girlfriends so extending across the two for a quickie nap wasn't an awkward thought, as it would have been if I were seated between strangers.

Finally, our seats. We can relax. Breathe. Take in a movie. Or not...
As if the day hadn't been frustrating enough, I was now on a packed flight to France in the middle seat with a busted TV. No movies. No games. No entertainment. 8 hours. God help me.

Alas, we landed in Paris with 45 minutes to get our connecting flight to Portugal. Let me say that again... 45 minutes to get our connecting flight. If you've ever been to the Paris Charles de Gaulle airport you know how very impossible this connection is, but there are four women on a mission: GET TO PORTUGAL. So we grabbed our bags and hauled ass across the airport.

Tip#1: Always wear running shoes when you travel. Your two-inch sandals that look great with your new vacation outfit will not hold up when you're hauling ass across airports.

We made it to the gate - with 15 minutes to spare!! And as the Air France air attendant closed the door in our face and said, "No more passengers," four overly-tired women had visions of homicide variations dancing through their heads.

The plane is right there!! It doesn't leave for 15 minutes!! But apparently, Air France can change the rules at any minute and thus, we were stuck in the airport for four hours until the next flight to Lisbon was scheduled to depart...not on time...apparently, delays are common with Air France.

Tip #2: Always start your conversation/complaint to Air France representatives with "Bonjour." If you don't, it's likely you'll get the available seat next to the lavatory on your next Air France flight. Just ask our friend Jenn.

We finally arrived in Selema, Portugal, 36-hours later. Lo and behold, those who checked bags had to wait up to three days for them to arrive. But there was wine, so we were happy.

Please airline Gods - Save Alitalia!! And please, if I may, would you keep our already booked flights the same because we just hired a car to whisk us through Rome during the five-hour layover before we head to Tuscany...

84 Days Until Tuscany

Co-worker Heather and I are traveling to Tuscany this June for a writer's conference/personal exploration. This trip is what one would consider not using the dollar to its advantage. There is nothing remotely inexpensive about a trip to Tuscany, but I'm going anyway. And truth be told, it's incredibly tempting to think about making this a one-way trip...

Trip Details:

8 days in Lucca, Tuscany, on an ancient estate

1/2 days spent writing and crafting creative works with authors/publishers

other 1/2 days spent making cheese (side note: we'll be waking at 4am to travel to the shepherdess to watch begin the pecorino and ricotta cheese-making), touring vineyards and -- dig this -- making limoncello.

Shout out to the conference organizer who put "lollying by the pool" into the schedule. God bless the organizer who can actually work pool time into a schedule.

And today, the last piece of the puzzle, we purchased our plane tickets. They were not cheap, but at least we're flying Delta (an international well-known airline) and the Delta Gods were smiling upon us ... seats 21F and 21G EXIT ROWS!

Frogger Travel Tip: If you book airline tickets through a one-off ticketing agency (cheaptickets.com, orbitz.com, travelocity.com, expedia.com) you may not be able to immediately choose your seat assignments. Book your travel and wait for your confirmation, then go to the airline's Web site and choose your seats from their site.